패션엔

드디어 패션 게임이 시작되었다. 지난 9월 4일 대망의 패션 위크 스타트를 끊은 뉴욕 패션 위크의 참가 디자이너들은 예술과 자연은 봄 시즌의 가장 인기 있는 아이디어로 막상막하의 모습을 보여주고 있다. 미스 아메리카부터 비틀즈까지 인스피레이션의 일부는 절충주의에서 영감을 받은 것이 많았다. 또한 60년대 팝 아트와 30년대 초현실주의까지 아트적인 접근 또한 눈에 띄였다.  아울러 랄프 로렌과 오스카 드 라 렌타, 마이클 코어스와 나르시소 로드리게즈에 이르기까지 뉴욕 컬렉션의 메이저들은 내년 봄 시즌을 위해 자신들의 빅 아이디어를 풀어 놓았다.

패션 디자이너에게 인스피레이션은 패션쇼의 아이디어 원천이자 자신의 아이덴티티를 시각적으로 보여주는 중요한 요소다. 그래서 디자이너들은 매년 두번씩 패션쇼 컨셉을 잡기 위해 인스페리이션 사냥을 나선다. 단 한 장의 사진이지만 디자이너의 인스피레이션을 보노라면 많은 상상을 할 수 있다. 아래의 인스피레이션 내용은 에 보도된 것으로 디자이너의 영감을 날 것 그대로 느끼게 하기 위해 원문 그대로 게재한다. 내년 봄/여름 유행 기상도의 밑그림을 다음의 인스피레이션 이미지를 통해 그려보시길.    

"Cut 'n' paste." — Elizabeth Giardina, Derek Lam 10 Crosby

"The combination of smudged makeup, girls on the street and Japanese airbrush artist Harumi Yamaguchi is my spring vibe." — Adam Selman

"Square + Square." — Araks Yeramyan, Araks

"TRANSCENDING." — Lubov Azria, BCBG Max Azria

"Living the American Dream." — Carmen Marc Valvo

"Culture and conformity." — Chris Gelinas, CG

"A solid foundation where construction and creativity integrate." — Chadwick Bell

"The laws of attraction in our natural world were the motivation behind this collection, which reflects the dynamic for the women who'll wear it and the way they wish to be perceived." — Charles Warren

"A daydream sets the mood for the collection, which reflects the culture in which we live....These are the clothes that my girlfriends and I want to wear, and that we live in." — Charlotte Ronson

"We have been rewatching David Lynch movies all summer long while riding the subway to and from the office every day." — Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra, Costello Tagliapietra

"Spring, called 'Fata Morgana,' is an exploration of what lies beyond the horizon." — Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters, Creatures of the Wind

"Daisies in bloom, desert roses, tropical hibiscus and Mexican dahlias; flowers freshly cut from an imaginary garden." — Desigual

"I was inspired by the paintings of an emerging Brooklyn artist, Rachel Pontious." — Sylvie Millstein, Hellessy

"We are inspired by the transition from dark to now light. Frame spring is an exploration of essentials rendered with simplicity, elegance, purity and tonality." — Frame Denim

"I've been paying a lot of attention to moldings and plaster details, and I thought it would be interesting to apply that to clothing." — Giovanna Randall, Honor

"Feminine men's wear." — Katharine Polk, Houghton

"Beauty." — Jason Wu

"The new frontier. Spring explores the alluring take on western Americana. Tea-stained ivory lace, suede fringe, stretch denim and embellished fabrics anchor the collection." — Jay Godfrey  

"GLAMBOY" — Ji Oh

"Culture clash." — Jonathan Cohen

"The feeling of euphoria an exotic tropical island evokes." — Josie Natori

"The starting point was an image of a flower from Wilder Quarterly magazine. I wanted the lines to follow the sloping, easy shape of the petals." — Kaelen Haworth, Kaelen

“This season I’m loving the natural patterns that occur in nature; the reflections in a pool, the shadow of florals and the texture of leaves.” — Deborah Lloyd, Kate Spade New York

"Spring is titled 'Fantasm,' the original spelling of the modern-day word 'phantasm,' which describes something that exists in perception only." — Katie Gallagher

"The tension between the need to conceal and the desire to reveal." — Meggie Kempner, Kempner

"Spring is a distinctive mash-up of soft pastels, warm blush tones and fierce black-and-white graphic patterns featured in our 'New Nomad' collection." — L.A.M.B.

"A living still-life." — Lisa Perry

"East-West." — Marissa Webb

"Iridescent sunrise." — Monique Lhuillier

"SAHARA." — Christopher and Nicole Kunz, Nicholas K

"Art, culture, rhythm and rhyme." — Nicole Miller

"Cross-pollination." — Misha Nonoo, Nonoo

"The collection is inspired by the bold, saturated colors from the Pop Art movement." — Jordana Warmflash, Novis

"Juxtaposition." — Peter Som

"We were inspired by Surrealism and Pop Art, a world where nothing is as it appears....It's all about 'illusions' where everything takes on a different meaning on closer inspection." — Odile Benjamin, Raoul

"Modern femininity." — Rebecca Minkoff

"It is about a modern femme fatale — alluring and a little dangerous." — Rita Vinieris

"'Raw power, can you feel it?' — Iggy Pop." — Carin Rodebjer, Rodebjer

"Palate cleanse." — Sally LaPointe

“We looked to American female artists; Georgia O’Keeffe and Louise Bourgeois, who feminized the artistic landscape in the mid-1900s.” — Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty, Suno

"Ca' d'Oro, the golden palace of Venice." — Tadashi Shoji

"Spring plays with temperature. Our woman oscillates between crisp shapes and heated colors." — Tanya Taylor

"I was inspired by Palm Springs from the early Seventies and the artificial perfection of the backyard pool lifestyle mixed up with a natural organic element." — Tess Giberson

"Two female Indian artists: Rukmini Devi Arundale (dancer) and Dayanita Singh(photographer), are the muses for spring; one classical, the other subversive." — Ramon Martin and Ryan Lobo, Tome

"The multicultural mix and Pop Art quality of the L.A. flower mart." — Trina Turk

"The artist Simone Shubuck's vibrant paintings inspired the color palette and detailing throughout the collection. This inspiration is close to home for me — quite literally — as Simone and I are neighbors on 21st Street in Chelsea." — Tina Lutz, Tse

"Shadows and light" — Ulla Johnson

"A soft morning light and a cool femininity." — Wes Gordon

"Grrrl power." — Whitney Pozgay, Whit

"Inspired by African sunsets and the photography of Seydou Keïta." — Yoana Baraschi

"Aegean summer." — Adam Lippes

"Anthropometries, Yves Klein." — Hanako Maeda, Adeam

Alexander Wang

"Modern-day Versailles." — Stacey Bendet, Alice + Olivia

"A view." — Joseph Altuzarra, Altuzarra

"I decided to find new ideas within the light and found a new woman: fresh, young, relaxed and, above all, full of life." — Angel Sanchez

“Architectural Storm.” — Ann Yee

"Salt in the air, sand in your hair." — Scott Studenberg and John Targo, Baja East

"Ladybugs." — Scott Sternberg, Band of Outsiders

"The mystery of feminine energy and its connection to nature." — Barbara Tfank

"The color code of a flower." — Carolina Herrera

"The cool blue and green color palette, sharp laser-cut patterns and intricate and voluminous crystal embroidery inspired by the glass sculptures of Sergio Redegalli." — Christian Siriano

"Resort evenings on the Mediterranean in the 1960s." — Dennis Basso

"Miss America." — Derek Lam

"The starting point was the work of late Australian artist Jeffrey Smart, an artist I remember from a very early age. I was attracted to the surreal highway landscapes and the bright industrial forms." — Dion Lee

"New York tribes." — DKNY

"Spring is a story about self reflection and remembering our innocence." — Dominic Louis

"Art of the streets." — Donna Karan

"A nostalgic collage of colors and shapes of a time when the Côte d'Azur was truly glamorous." — Diane von Furstenberg

"Unity." — Danielle Sherman, Edun

"Dora Maar and the colors of Guido Trentini." — Sofia Sizzi, Giulietta

"Deceptive grace." — Lubov Azria, Hervé Leger

"This season's woman and collection are as sharp as fragments of broken glass." —Jonathan Simkhai

"We're inspired by the photographs by Valerie Finnis of eccentric gardeners." — Karen Walker

"LACOSTE L 42." — Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Lacoste

"Spring started with a vintage kimono I bought at auction several years ago and the graphic work of Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama." — Lela Rose

Lorry Newhouse

"The sunrisers." — Mara Hoffman

"Organic opulence." — Michelle Smith, Milly

"Illuminate" — Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa, Noon by Noor

"Surf undertones meet urban elegance with an emphasis on layered transparencies and movement." — Alexa Adams and Flora Gill, Ohne Titel

"Light." — Phillip Lim

"Smart, high-tech and balanced-pure sportswear influences and simple, softly constructed silhouettes lend to a modern tailoring story with sense of calm and Zen- like serenity." — Thomas Steinbruck, Porsche Design

"Global trekker." — Prabal Gurung

"We are always trying to examine the gray space between two extremes. This season was about exploring the idea of containing chaos within the structure of Public School." — Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, Public School

"X-ray technique." — Ralph Rucci

"Joy." — Rebecca Taylor

"Land art." — Rosetta Getty

"Skingraft spring is inspired by Santeria and Mexican prayer altars and features a collaboration with NYC-based blood artist Jordan Eagles." — Jonny Cota, Skingraft

"...WEDNESDAY..." — Thom Browne

"Calm." — Amy Smilovic, Tibi

"Music muse." — Tommy Hilfiger

"Contrasts." — Tracy Reese

"Inspired by the mystery and beauty of coral reefs, this collection celebrates the vibrant multiplicity of the contemporary woman." — Valentina Kova

"Rose Tint." — Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard, Veronica Beard

Victoria Beckham

"Treasures of the Forbidden City." — Vivienne Tam

" 'Good composition is like a suspension bridge: Each line adds strength and takes none away.' — Robert Henri." — Victoria Bartlett, VPL

"The magic of math." — Yeohlee Teng, Yeohlee

"Triumphant in nature and form." — Yigal Azrouël

"Hidden form." — Zac Posen

"Nostalgia for Europe." — Maria Cornejo, Zero + Maria Cornejo

"Tarot." — Nicky and Simone Zimmermann, Zimmermann

“Be bold, courageous, stand out and create a story of your own.” — Daniel Silverstain

"Minimal with zeal" — Zoe Jordan

“I’m obsessed with posters by Hapshash and the Coloured Coat, by Nigel Waymouth, the original co-owner of the shop Granny Takes a Trip.” — Anna Sui

"Mother nature strolls through the garden." — Azede Jean-Pierre

“Luminous and Effervescent.” — Mark Badgley and James Mischka, Badgley Mischka

“Rice Is Nice.”— Betsey Johnson

“The Ultimate Provocateur.” — Bibhu Mohapatra

“New spectrum.” — Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein Collection

“Lotus Garden.” — Rozae Nichols, Clover Canyon

“SAFARI”— Jade Lai, Creatures of Comfort

“A healthy mind and body.” — Cynthia Rowley

“Poetic Vision.” — Josep Font, Delpozo

“New Wave.” — Andreas Melbostad, Diesel Black Gold

“Serene Chic.” — Douglas Hannant

“High-tech Bohemian” — Elie Tahari

“The contradictions within us.” — Greg Lauren

“Melting” — Prabal Gurung, ICB

"The elegance and beauty of indigenous Latin culture.” — Tom Mora, J. Crew

“I collaborated with the artist, Enoc Perez. We were interested in playing with luscious textures and color, while keeping the lines very architectural and sleek.” — Gilles Mendel, J.Mendel

“Layered transparency.” — Jeffrey Dodd

“Monroe — I started noticing that every day I see her in some form. In L.A. I found myself by accident in her bungalow at the Beverly Hills Hotel and weeks later, with shaking hands, I held her most iconic dresses…” — Jenny Packham

“Movement.” — John Patrick, Organic by John Patrick

"Rich oasis blues, coupled with watermelon pinks and epicurean brights all set against a clean, crisp white…a spring Sunday afternoon” — Serge Azria, Joie

“KANDI” — Johnson Hartig, Libertine

“City Bird in the Tropics.” — Lyn Devon

"AND THEN HE KISSED ME.” — Michael Kors

"Paper dress collage.” — Narciso Rodriguez

“Sparkling, not still.” — Oscar de la Renta

“The tranquil Zen rock gardens of Kyoto and the cherry blossoms that surround them.” — Pamella Roland

“MÉLANGE” — Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, Proenza Schouler

“Refined silhouettes of the 1960s, meets jet-set glamour.” — Rachel Zoe

Ralph Lauren

“RUB-A-DUB STYLE” — Sophie Theallet

“We’ve set out on foot, from city to sea.” — Steven Alan

“Françoise and Pablo in Vallauris.” — Tory Burch

“Luxury Mummy.” — Zaldy

“I am paying homage to America, my adopted home.” — Zang Toi

패션엔 유재부 기자

kjerry386@naver.com