월드패션 | 2016-02-11 |
뉴욕 패션 위크 디자이너들이 공개한 2016 가을/겨울 인스피레이션
오는 2월 11일(현지시간) 뉴욕 패션 위크를 시작으로 거의 한달 동안 진행되는 패션 위크 먼스가 시작된다. 뉴욕 패션 위크를 앞두고 26명의 디자이너들이 스케치와 디자인 맵을 공개했다. 이를 통해 2016 가을/겨울 트렌드를 미리 엿본다.
패션 에디터는 점쟁이가 아니다. 그러나 우리는 이미 2016 가을 시즌에 어떤 룩이 등장할 지 대충 감을 잡을 수는 있을 듯 하다. 우리가 좋아하는 디자이너들이 자신들의 런웨이를 선보이기 전에 자신들이 그린 스케치나 혹은 사진을 통해 올 2016 가을/겨울 컬렉션에 대한 힌트를 주었기 때문이다. 이 라인업을 통해 우리는 제이크루, 마리사 웹, 티비와 같은 디자이너들이 제시한 이지 레이어드 룩과 70년대 레트로 그리고 핑크 팔레트를 엿볼 수 있다. 여기에 소개된 디자이너들의 스케치를 살펴보면 패션 위크가 시작되기 전에 트렌드 전문가가 될 수 있을 것이다. 한편 디자이너들의 이번 시즌 컨셉에 대한 멘트는 디자이너의 감성을 그대로 전달하기 위해 제공한 원문 그대로 게재한다.
제이,크루(J.Crew)
"A little bit of this . . . a little bit of that." – Somsack Sikhounmuong, women's designer
티비(Tibi)
"Controlled Ease."
마리사 웹(Marissa Webb)
"Dandizette." — Marissa Webb, designer
바나나 리퍼블릭(Banana Republic)
"Inspired by the tension of structured ease." — Michael Anderson, senior vice president of design
앨리스 + 올리비아(Alice + Olivia)
"New York City circa the 70s . . . the downtown art scene at the time when the city was financially imploding and culturally exploding with creativity." — Stacey Bendet, designer
레베카 타일러(Rebecca Taylor)
"As a child my family spent time in England and I remember my uncle’s mother Jean a well-known print designer working in London in the 60's and 70's. She created beautiful floral prints, exotic Indian paisleys and patterns - often inspired by Kate Greenway's illustrations. Jean's influence and spirit is found in my latest collection. It’s a collage of textures, techniques and flora motifs made modern in their application. I'd like to tribute this collection to her - Jean passed away late last year at the grand old age of 100." - Rebecca Taylor, designer
허브 리거(Hervé Léger)
"Hybrid" — Lubov Azria, chief creative officer of BCBGMAXAZRIA Group
타미 힐피거(Tommy Hilfiger)
레베카 민코프(Rebecca Minkoff)
"This season the global traveler was the force behind our inspiration. I wanted the collection to reflect a girl who is confident and at ease regardless of her surroundings. She’s curious and loves color and doesn’t shy away from adventure." — Designer, Rebecca Minkoff
마라 호프만(Mara Hoffman)
"I wanted to create a presentation that's experiential, where the pieces are bold in imagination. I wanted to create a moment that speaks to fantasy and inspiration." — Mara Hoffman, designer
레이첼 조(Rachel Zoe)
"Fall 2016 is a play on masculine tailoring and feminine silhouettes. With juxtaposition between androgyny and romance, there is a subtle and unexpected sexiness throughout." — Rachel Zoe, designer
마르케샤(Marchesa)
"The Royal Gardens" — Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, cofounders
울라 존슨(Ulla Johnson)
"The collection is a tableau vivant of musical references, pairing nineties grunge with sixties insouciance shown here in a slouchy hand knit cable cardigan paired with an abbreviated skirt of layered razor sharp pleats." — Ulla Johnson, designer
BCBG
"Our muse is a performer at heart, with an artistic sensibility." — Lubov Azria, chief creative officer of BCBGMAXAZRIA Group
모니크 륄리에(Monique Lhuillier)
"My Fall collection was inspired by the modern day woman and reflects her emotions, moods and experiences through strong looks created with bold colors and contrasting textures." — Monique Lhuillier, designer
엘리 타하리(Elie Tahari)
"Past Modern.” — Elie Tahari, designer
데니스 바쏘(Dennis Basso)
"Wild, romantic, lavish." — Dennis Basso, designer
렐라 로즈(Lela Rose)
"The artist Jonas Wood served as an early inspiration for the collection, especially with his use of geometrics and botanics. There is an exploration of leaves and the graphic geometry inherent in their patterns. The leaf shapes and patterns can be seen in our prints, embroideries, jewelry details, and even shapes." — Lela Rose, designer
사이몬 밀러(Simon Miller)
"Juxtaposition." – Daniel Corrigan and Chelsea Hansford, creative directors
VEDA
"VEDA's Fall/Winter 16 collection draws inspiration from a number of influences from creative director Lyndsey Butler's travels and experiences. Butler drew on her Southwestern roots by incorporating traditional equestrian tack and attire into her latest collection. There is also a combination of textures and strong colors, the use of various leathers and weights, as well as silks, suedes, and cashmere."
이갈 아즈로엘(Yigal Azrouel)
"In the shadow of innocence, surrounding light is exposed." — Yigal Azrouel, designer
크리스찬 시리아노(Christian Siriano)
"My Fall 2016 collection was first inspired by artist Sheila Hicks' 'Art of the Yarn' exhibit. After researching her work and the idea of yarn design as a form of art, I became inspired by all the many different techniques of knitting and weaving in fabrications. We looked at different ways to knit, twist and manipulate fabric into pieces that had structure but were still soft and elegant. To modernize these techniques, we digitally printed knitted fibers onto silk jerseys, cottons, and wool in order to capture the idea of a knit — without the process of knitting. Just as Hicks weaves textured narratives with yarn, we tried to create a collection with story progression." — Christian Siriano, designer
프레임 데님(Frame Denim)
"We design for the women that surround us, our new collection embodies these women." — Jens Grede and Erik Torstensson, cofounders and designers
밀리(Milly)
"From couture/utilitarian to soft/structured and masculine/feminine, my MILLY Fall 2016 collection is a spirited study of duality." – Milly Smith, founder and designer
니콜라스 케이(Nicholas K)
"Paolo Soleri."
제이.크루 남성복(J.Crew Men's)
"We were inspired by different finds from our travels, such as vintage horse blankets and foulard scarves, which we then morphed into something unexpected and very J.Crew.” – Frank Muytjens, men’s designer
패션엔 유재부 기자
kjerry386@naver.com
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